Photos by Linda Doyle, Randy Thomson, Jerry Tuttle, Ed and Gloria Vaughn, Linda Williams and Jim Young Click on photo thumbnails to view a larger picture. Tuxtla-Gutierrez Sunday March 12 1 Randy Thomson 1:30 AM - Finally, all packed and ready to go. Set the alarm to get us up at 5:45 AM so we would have an hour to get ready to leave at 6:45. That should get us to the airport in plenty of time, for our 9:45 flight, even if there are road delays. 6:40 AM - The doorbell is ringing and we're still asleep.A million thanks to granddaughter Liz for getting to the house to drive us a few minutes early. We were bitten by technology. Our new digital alarm radio has three alarm modes, everyday, weekdays only, and weekends only. My half of the dual alarm was set for weekdays, and I forgot to change it. We rushed to shower and get ready, and were on the road by about 7:20. The drive to DFW airport was uneventful, thank goodness. But, this is Spring Break weekend. We found lonnnggg lines at American check-in. Now, we're really cutting it close. The Worthleys are looking forward to their first foreign exchange. They let us move up to check in when we were on the last switchback in line. That saved us 7-8 minutes, and the reservation agent let Jo go ahead to get in line at security while I was finishing up check-in and getting the bags checked. That saved us another couple of minutes. Thank you AA. We arrived at the gate just as they called for initial boarding - 25 minutes to departure. I know that Linda Doyle's blood pressure was through the top by the time we walked up. Everyone was so relieved to see us. It's nice to be wanted. Once on board, takeoff was delayed another ten minutes, while passengers who were later than us were boarded. 10:00 AM - Away from the gate and on our way to Chiapas, via Mexico City. We had a smooth, uneventful flight to Mexico City, disembarked, then CHAOS!!! Unfamiliar airport, unfamiliar language (for most of us) - we managed to get strung out going through customs. Then there was confusion on ticketing; a few had been ticketed all the way through to Tuxtla-Gutierrez, but most were not, and we had no idea where to go for tickets. In addition, most of our luggage was checked all the way through, but a few bags had to be picked up and rechecked. We didn't have adequate layover time, and with the delayed takeoff, we landed a little late. So, by the time everyone was through customs, and we finally found the check-in for Tuxtla-Gutierrez, many of us were told it was too late to get ticketed on our connecting flight. About half of the group, including ED Linda Doyle, had confirmed seats, the rest of us, Asst. ED Jerry Tuttle, Bill and Barbara Worthley, Ed and Gloria Vaughn, Linda Williams, and Randy and Jo Thomson did not. To make matters worse, the gate was listed as 15, but we were told the plane had left. Then, Jim Young discovered that the flight was actually at gate 13. Those with confirmed tickets got on the plane, while the rest of us waved goodbye. Everyone but Linda Williams and Jerry Tuttle, that is. She had become totally separated from the group, and Jerry was looking for her. Jerry eventually found Linda patiently waiting in one of the waiting areas. Jo became very assertive with the gate agents, insisting that we must all get on the next flight (about an hour later) to Tuxtla. She was referred to another agent, at a different desk, so off we went. Jennifer, the agent Jo was to speak with was tied up, but David, another agent was very helpful. Jo was amused, and a little relieved, when he asked, "Do you speak English?" Everyone finally had a confirmed seat on the next flight - except Linda Williams, who had been located too late to get her ticket in with the rest of us. Linda was on standby. With some additional insistence by Jo, Linda was finally confirmed on our flight. I wonder how many were bumped in order to get us on, but we were very appreciative of the assistance we received from the gate agents. On our way to Tuxtla-Guttierez at last. At last, we were on the elevated bus and on our way to the plane to Tuxtla-Guttierrez. The flight was bumpy most of the way, but we all finally arrived safely at our destination, and were met by Alex, the Tuxtla ED, and several of our hosts. Our bags, which we were told would not go on the plane without us, arrived on the earlier flight. The first group arrives. Max, Bill and Barbara's host, took Jo and me to the home of our host, Mariela de la Cruz, where we were graciously welcomed, shown to our bedroom, and served a light lunch. We were surprised and delighted to find that Mariela was also hosting Howard and Myrtle McMahon. Our casa away from home. We spent the late afternoon resting, a much appreciated respite after the chaos of the day. We were very thankful to be there, as there were times when we thought we might end up spending the night in Mexico City, missing the welcoming dinner. The welcoming dinner was held at the home of Ruth Esponda Espinosa. Her husband was not available that evening. The house and grounds were much larger and more elegant than they appeared from the walled outside. This is the general rule in Mexico, as it helps to prevent being targeted for crime. There was a large pool, a dancing area with a raised area for a band, garden tables, and a large garden room, where dinner was served later. Dancers in native costume. In the rear was a very large parking area, which was used for the evening entertainment. The entertainment was a folk dancing group. The members were of wide age range, and were mostly women. Each dance was done in colorful costume, representing the area of the state where the dance originated. A young couple danced two dances, one of which symbolized birds courting (the quetzal, I think). We were all very impressed with the dances, and I took many pictures. (So what's new?) After the entertainment, a "pot luck" buffet dinner was served. We had our first chance to experience some of the common foods of southern Mexico. We were a little surprised to find spaghetti on the table, but later determined that spaghetti is a very common food in Chiapas, and is served at almost every meal. Dinner was followed by live music and dancing. We found the Chiapans to be very good dancers. Sated with good food, exhausted from a long day, and happy with our new friends, we returned home and crashed, in anticipation of an early and busy second day of activities. This was certainly a memorable day, in all respects. Monday March 13 2 Jo Thomson Our host's livingroom. Our bedroom Randy and I shared hosting with Howard and Myrtle McMahan and we enjoyed the opportunity to get to know them better. Our host was Mariela de la Cruz who owned a day spa. She was quite busy keeping it operating during our homestay. Mariela was a great hostess and in spite of her busy activities was very attentive and most gracious. Her casa was very large, with large rooms, lovely tile floors and was tastefully furnished and decorated. Our room space was taken up by our king size bed and we enjoyed the AC during the hot/ warm days and nights in Tuxtla. On this morning, after a cold shower for both of us(the hot water heater was not always lit), we enjoyed a leisurely breakfast with Howard and Myrtle of raisin bran, bananas, cantaloupe and coffee. Gallery of the Governors Our schedule for the morning changed as the Casa de los Artesenia (Arts & Craft House) was not ready for us. Our first stop was at the Jaime Sabines Cultural Center. We walked up the stairs to view the portrait gallery of the Governors of Chiapas and historical documents related to the area. Tuxtla is the State Capitol of Chiapas. Carmen Turnbull de C. was our skilled interpreter. Carmen's father-in-law was one of the mayors and Luis E. Marin's great grandfather was a governor. Luis gave a short history of Chiapas stating that the Spaniards came to Chiapas in 1524. Meditation A Origins Murals are very popular in Mexican public buildings, and the cultural center had many. The first, viewed from the upper level was more primitive in style with less vibrant colors than the others. Man and fish in the water depicted the Age of Aquarius. The mural on the lower level consisted of clay and glass tile and represented the ancient Maya culture. Interesting aspects of this mural included child birth with nursing dolphins, the duality of death/life was depicted by the octopus. We were told the life span of the octopus is 3 years and they are highly intelligent. The sun symbolized the cultural region and bright glass embedded in the mural represented sun spots. The title of the mural was "Meditation A Origins." It covered one wall, was intricate and mystical in detail. Mural on protecting the environment The last mural was near the exit door and depicted snakes, priests, milk flowing from a woman's breast to the earth, depicting nurturing mother earth. We were told the artist's intention was to depict protection of the environment. At the top of the mural two trumpet players were playing for the witches to leave in peace. We wanted a written summary of the artist's meaning and intent and we were told it did not exist. Marimba players practicing As we were leaving the museum, we heard marimba music. When we walked further we saw that it was a group of young people, practicing. We entered the room and all stood around the walls listening to these talented young people. I was impressed by their exceptional teamwork and precision. We were later to discover that this group was to play at our farewell dinner. This was our first of many encounters with the beautiful music of the Mexican marimba. The Secretary General greets us Linda Doyle expresses our appreciation After pausing to hear the marimbas, we had to scurry to be on time for our meeting the Mayor sans the Mayor. The female General Secretary graciously greeted each of us individually and then gave formal opening statements. The reception was warm and hospitable with each Counselor introduced along with the area of their responsibilities. We were then each presented a certificate that honored our presence in their lovely city. Linda Doyle expertly conveyed our appreciation in her carefully rehearsed Spanish. Casa de los Artesenia Our last stop of the morning was the Casa de los Artesenia for shopping and a tour of the crafts in the store. I was amused by the look on some of the men's faces during the tour. We were walking up the stairs and they asked, "What is upstairs?" They heard, "Textiles and women's clothing." Some seemed less than excited about seeing the women's clothing. However, the exhibit contained interesting, old and unusual weavings and textiles from the Chiapas area. Bill Worthley had seriously studied Spanish for at least three months prior to the exchange. He was speaking with an employee in Spanish and she responded in English. He jokingly laughed, "Don't talk to me in English!" Lunch with Luis and Merlina We enjoyed lunch with the hosts of Jim and Berry, Luis Marin and Merlina Gutierrez Nazar. Their chef prepared a delicious meal of chicken molé. The dish contained four ingredients, achove chili peppers, Mexican brown sugar (tastier and healthier than brown sugar in the U.S.) tomatoes and crushed animal crackers. The rice, with pieces of diced liver was served with tortillas. The flan dessert was similar to cheese cake as it was made with Philadelphia Cream Cheese. Harkey, a young man, has been with the family for several years and is a magnificent chef. Merlina who owned several taco restaurants taught him to cook. After the meal we enjoyed cinnamon coffee with warm milk and sampled (generously) the liquer Merlina made, one was "candy sweet" the other was Narjana (orange juice) and was full bodied and tangy. Photos of Amistad del dia Following lunch, our next stop was the City Museum, highly prized by the citizens of Tuxtla. They watched a thirty minute video (I slept through it as I was exhausted) explaining the expansion, history and restoration of the building. The first floor contained historical items from Tuxtla. The upper floor contained a photographic exhibit of beautiful area flowers. One flower, in particular, was interesting to our Friendship Force group and organization. It was named, Amistad del Dia, Friend of the day. Thanks to Jerry Tuttle for helping us translate it. The flower represented yesterday, today and tomorrow and it changes colors in the process. In the morning it is blanco, then rose and in the evening turns red. There was also an exhibit of local art. Alejandro (host of Leaf and Angelica) drove us to Mariela's and we had time to organize our gifts, clothes, suitcases and backpacks. Mariela returned from her spa about 9:30 PM and we enjoyed a light meal of warmed tortillas with cheese, along with milk and/or fruit juice, very adequate due to our large lunch. The five of us shared family stories, club events, pdrevious inbound/outbound exchanges and deepened our friendship. Upon reviewing my journal entries for the day, so full of activities, I understood our exhaustion upon returning home from this exchange. The fifteen days were full and active. The group took many pictures which will capture the memories of new friends and another fabulous exchange. Tuesday March 14 3 Bill and Barbara Worthley What a great day to do a diary, it was my birthday!! As was her daily routine, our hostess Candy Abadia fixed us one of her fabulous breakfasts. There was fruit in yogurt, fried bananas, frijoles, eggs in salsa, orange juice, side dish of goat cheese, and of course, that great Chiapas coffee! Cocodrillos at the zoo We assembled at the Miguel Alvarez del Toro Regional Zoo at 9:30 am. We had a guide to direct us through the zoo even though we were given maps and there was only one path around the park. We learned right away that this was a unique zoo in that it only contained animals native to Chiapas. (Darn, no elephants!!) Besides the animals, there was a healthy sample of snakes and insects. Not Barbara's favorite area. One of the best descriptions of the zoo after we got a little tired was: "Up the hill and down the hill" repeated at least a dozen times. The beautiful quetzel Surprisingly, we didn't even get to see it all. Our guide was only scheduled for two hours and left us after we had seen about half the zoo. I guess us old people had just moved too slow. Primate parental assistance One of the most interesting event was only seen by me and maybe two other people. I had stayed back to watch the spider monkeys high in the trees. As I was watching an adult monkey, a small young monkey came into view. The adult, while holding on to the branch of one tree, swung over and caught the branch of the neighboring tree. It just hung there for awhile and I thought it must have found something to eat up there. About that time, the young monkey came into view again. It crossed over the tail and body of the adult monkey and on to the other tree. Then, they both proceeded on their way. It's my BIRTHDAY!! But MY birthday party wasn't over yet. We had all worked up a big hunger, which is hard to do when we were all fed about ever hour on the hour. For our dinner, we went to the "El Sitio Restaurante" (The Place restaurant) with the motto "like no other place." And at least there is no other place like it in Fort Worth. Good food, good fun The structure was typical of many places in the area. Large area covered with palm frond roof. We were all seated at one long table and served 'family style,' no menus. Some of the items served, we had to ask our hosts what they were. Of course there were chips with green hot sauce, and frijoles. Some of the more interesting dishes were seafood marinaded with cilantro and lemons, boiled meat, pig's feet, tostados, tortas, cooked chicken in a pastry shell, cow udder, onions and green peppers. For dessert, Jicama, cucumbers, orange slices served with cheese curds were served. Tequila shot Then came the "down the hatch" experience. The waiter had a tray of shot glasses filled with tequila and Fresca. He'd cover the top, hit the table with the bottom of the glass and hand it to you and you were expected to down it in one gulp. But, if you were into a proper salute (salud), you would first raise the glass and say "Arriba" (up), lower the glass and say "Abajo" (Down), next push the glass out from your body and say "El Centro" (middle) and then say "Adentro" (inside) and drink up. This is El Sitio There was a live band at the restaurant, and so, with the music and a few cervezas, we danced the afternoon away. That evening was a free time and our host took us to the central Cathedral. Its main feature was the twelve disciples that paraded out of the bell tower and back in again every hour on the hour. Before we left the area, our host took us to "La Torta Vequera." This was one of several torta restaurants that were owned by a family that was a member of Friendship Force. The next day they were our hosts for dinner in their home. It was a full and fun day in TuGuChi! P.S. When Gary Paramore came over from Dallas to brief us on Chiapas, he mentioned several places we should see. On of them was the restaurant that served the "PUMPO." We went there Monday evening March 13th. Shortly after we arrived, Leaf and Ange Wanless from Florida, came in with their hosts. We got our tables together and ordered a "PUMPO." the waiters make a big deal about serving a Pumpo by ringing bells and everyone yelling "Pumpo." It is served in a large gourd. I guess you could drink it from the gourd, but we had ours in glasses. My assessment: A lot of hipe over a weak drink.I'd rather have a marguerita. However, it was a lively crowd, there were marimba players, but the kids at the school were much better performers than the professionals at "Pumpo". The restaurant had a celebration for those having birthdays. I said mine wasn't until the next day, but our host Enrique said that in Mexico they started celebrating the night before. Whether or not this is true, I got "coronated" anyway along with three others from the crowd. By Mexican standards, we were out of there early -- around 10:30 PM. Wednesday March 15 4 Ed and Genie Furber Museo de Paleotologia Saber-tooth tiger fossil We visited Museo de Paleotologia, founded by Eliseo Palacias Aguilar, born February 12, 1896; died in 1944 at age 48. The museum was founded with his fossils. We viewed a collection of fossils from the area, pictures and models of native animals. In 1942 the first fossil (3 million years old) was found in Chiapas; spiradactylos lived at the time of dinosaurs and large ferns. Many species of cyclads were presented in the pictographic display. Examples of the cretaceous period fossils, ammonites from 70 million years ago were displayed. Molds of the exoskeletons of creatures and an exhibit of insects in amber were displayed. Teeth of a rhinoceros were of interest and a description of the movement of the earth rising which allowed the fossils to be exposed to the surface was enlightening. Examples of some current forms of creatures were compared to ancient fossils from Chiapas. We were informed that some fossils from Chiapas have been shown for the first time around the world. A tooth and maxilla were found not far away from the area and from them a skeleton of a saber- toothed tiger was recreated for display. Also interesting was a geological map of the State of Chiapas. First recorded date (lower right) Alabaster We then visited the Sala de Arqueologia, Museo Regional de Chiapas. The earliest recorded date on a stone was 36 BC; the glyphs carved into the stone. We viewed artifacts era by era, and the guide and our hostess, Carmen acted as interpretor. We then viewed an exhibit of "El jaguar pre-hispanico Huellar de la Divine," followed by a 15 minute video. The dates of the exhibit were Decembre 2005 to Marzo 2006. Then, we toured the Jardin Botanico, founded by Dr. Faustino Miranda (1905-1964) in 1941. Jardin Botanica We then drove to eat lunch with our host at La Vianda, and were visited by the owner, Jose Luis Reyes, a former Friendship Force member, who was married to the daughter of the original owner. We returned to our host's home. Later in the day, Jesus Nazar, related to our day host, drove us on an excursion through both sides of the city. We were driven to Lom Lek Café (Lom Lek means "very good" in the Mayan language), only four months old: a beautiful view from the southern mountain over the city called a Mirador "Grand View." Marimba Park Then, we were taken to the Museo de la Marimbo (the Marimba Museum), which opened the day before. The wood used for marimbas is from the madena de horniguille tree. We went home to freshen-up and went to the Marimba Park and viewed a group dancers in colorful costumes and listened to the lovely and lively music of the marimbas. Some dances were similar to the dances viewed at the home of Maria Luisa de Araujoh. Thursday March 16 5 Ed and Genie Furber Historic convent Chiapa de Corzo Museo de la Laca Jesus Nazar, again was our driver to Chiapa de Corzo, a town founded in 1524, which in 1850 was named for Angel Albino Corzo. We viewed a Dominican Convent founded in 1539. The monastery and cathedral had been divided in the distant past; one side became a prison, the other side a girl's school built in 1545. An earthquake damaged it in 1975. The doors closed and it was remodeled in 1992. Within it is the Museo de la Laca, founded in 1952, containing 16th century artifacts. One mural along the wall represented American civilization since 1492, including the Spanish involvement with China and the orient. Jose Jiminez - Wood Sculptor Marta Vargas - Lacquer Artist After that we viewed four artisans creating their handiworks. Maria Marielana Dominguez Mendoza was an embroidery artist; Victoria Sanchez was a potter, Jose Jiminez was a wood sculptor producing realistic figures of the cultural persons in Chiapas, and Marta Vargas was an artist using grourds, staining them red and using only her hand and a tiny brush to produce the beautifully finished gourds. We left and walked by the Prima Vera tree which was in bloom, bright yellow and pink flowers, adjacent to the 16th century cathedral. La Pila We walked to La Pila (the fountain) representing the royal presence (the crown of the queen of Spain), to represent their superiority to the indigenous people who founded this village. This fountain, we were told, is the symbol of the State. It was constructed in an Arabic (Moorish) style and named for the conqueror, Capitane Diego de Mazariegos. Sumodero Canion and Rio Grijalva Then we walked to the Grijalva River to begin the tour of the river on two boats of the Sumidero Canyon, 22 km to the dam, the second of four dams built in the 1980s, the height of the canyon wall was 970 meters at the highest point. We saw alligators, numerous birds, and two large groups of black vultures. Many wonderful views and photographs were taken. Restaurante Jardin We returned and ate dinner at the restaurant Jardin, then home with another tour of the city by Jesus and our host. We viewed the exterior of their large State Hospital. Friday March 17 6 Bob Urban Mount la Ceiba Friday, at Tuxtla, started as all the other days there with the rooster crowing about 4:30 AM. We enjoyed a great breakfast of scrambled eggs and green beans. We helped "snap" the beans the night before. We all piled into cars and took off for the "over looks" of the Canon de Sumidero. La Coyota El Tepehuaje The one we had explored by boat the day before. It was a beautiful day, sunny with only light clouds. Our first stop was at M. la Ceiba, along with a bus load of teenagers. Ivan walked up to three of the girls from the bus adn said, "Do you speak English?" They replied, "No." Then Ivan said, "I Love You." They knew the English words and laughed. When the girls passed Ivan on the stairs going back up they said to him, "We love you, too." Everyone laughed. We next stopped at the look out "La Coyota". Bill started talking to the kids from the bus and got lots of laughs. The air was much cooler at the next stop known as "El Tepehuaje" The Group at the Top We were getting high enough in the mountains to really enjoy the cool air. This was a potty stop with most scrambling for change for the potties. We took group pictures at the next stop "M. Los Chiapas." The view from the top was spectacular. We could look down on the river and see where had been the day before. We had lunch with our hosts at a seafood restaurant "Camarones Estilo 5 de Meyo." We enjoyed all kinds of seafood especially shrimp wrapped in bacon. Chiapan native dresses Farewell Dinner Marimba Music The farewell dinner was held in the outdoors at the home of Mirna Gutierrez. The entertainment was a Marimba band of young musicians from The school "Son de Chapis." The main course of the dinner was Tocos with all kinds of other traditional foods such as sweetened tamales plus all kinds of wonderful "home-made" desserts. Most of the women from the Tuxtla club dressed in beautiful colorful costumes. After the meal, the Marimba players moved out of the way, and Randy and Jo taught the crowd how to dance the "Cotton-eyed-Joe." A great time was had by all. Mariposa Tours Saturday March 18 7 Myrtle McMahan Starting a new adventure Our guides, Lisa and Miles On Saturday morning, we all gathered to meet our tour directors Miles and Lisa of Mariposa Tours. After goodbyes to our wonderful hosts in Tuxtla-Gutierrez, we boarded a small bus and a nine passenger van and started on a new adventure. Miles and Lisa really made us feel welcome, and we left Tuxtla at 9:30 AM, with a short stop at a shopping center where we used the baños and ATM machines. We stopped for pictures in interesting spots such as a small community built around a lake. There were many greenhouses where flowers were grown for export. Village by the lake We stopped at Nachiuc for 20 minutes of shopping and to use the baños. Lovely embroidered and wood carved pieces were at the roadside markets, as well as interesting foods. Roadside market The road was windy and portions of the road had been destroyed by a hurricane that went through this year. San Felipe Church Centro Arisanal Indiginia de Chiapas We stopped to see the San Felipe Church in San Cristóbal and on to the beautifully restored "quinta" or Centro Artisanal Indigina de Chiapas where we were the very first guests for a wonderful meal. Miles introduced Mariano, the head of this new organization which is trying to help the indigenous people from the area earn a decent wage. Mariano explains the culture Indigenous food Mariano explained about the food which is the most typical food of the area. We ate chipolene and beans, squash, lettuce and carrots (known for their medicinal purposes), chard, picante, mustard greens, fruit of chiote, chipalene (no meat), chiote-the, corn, chicken soup, tortillas (all made by hand), tamales, beans and chipalne, cabbage and beef, and passion fruit drink, lemonade, and margaritas. The food was delicious. As we were the first to be served food at this venture, they realized that they had forgotten eating utensils, so we ate with a serving spoon, fork, or our hands. Plastic forks eventually appeared. Hand tying a rug with cultural symbols After lunch, we toured their store and heard about the start of this new venture to employ indigenous people, both men and women, so that they can earn a living. They are promoting their history and story through their hand tied rugs. It takes about a month to weave a rug which sold for $300 for the smaller ones and $600 for the larger ones. They showed us about ten finished pieces, and Jo and Randy Thomson purchased one. Sunday March 19 8 Marlene Tuttle Breakfast at Oro Verde Our day stared early with our bags ready to board the bus and van at 7 AM. The beautiful cool morning had a mist like a cloud forest. At Oro Verde we had breakfast in a quaint restaurant. After breakfast, we headed up the mountain to Chamula to visit a church having both a priest and a Shaman! Miles and Lisa prepared us for our pilgrimage through the church. They told us to walk slowly, not to stare and to be respectful of the worshipers. Since photos are not allowed we left our cameras in the bus. The sights and sounds were like nothing we have experienced in our lives. The smell of pine needles that covered the floor mingled with candles and burning incense was mystical. The brightly patterned clothing left us with an image to be long remembered. While we were in the church, the guards at the door stopped a young European woman with a camera and demanded the film. Since the camera was digital, there was no film. Miles intervened explaining in Spanish why there was no film. Miles told us after we left that the guards were considering keeping her camera - a better solution than going to jail. Cemetary at Chamula Lunch at Los Tulipanes Outside the church in a large market area, children selling all of the products of their area besieged us. Some of the children really tore at our heartstrings and after we no longer had pesos, we made our way back to the bus. Some of the older boys added a new wrinkle. They asked for dollar bills for their "collection." When we said no thank you, they laughed and left. We stopped for lunch at the colorful Los Tulipanes restaurant. After lunch, we wound our way down mountainous roads toward the Agua Azul waterfall and Palenque. We drove by people and children waiting beside the road for the next small public bus to appear. Animals were tied beside the road eating grass from the barrow ditch. Sometimes the road was so narrow that two cars had difficulty passing much less two buses! Somehow the system seems to work. Agua Azul The ride was long but we finally reached Agua Azul. The place was packed with people out for a Sunday outing so we opted for a short walk up the waterfall trail and no swimming. We wanted to arrive at Palenque before dark. Hotel Ciudad Real Upon arriving at Ciudad Real, our hotel, we checked in and then gathered in the Lobby. A manmade stream and jungle area housed three crocodiles of various sizes and a half dozen turtles. A parrot walked the rails and iguanas hung out in the trees. Later we discovered two peacocks and two howler monkeys in a cage at the back of the property. Fire dancers at Don Muchos For dinner we went to Don Muchos, a restaurant on several acres devoted to an environmental camp. Tents for camping were used by young environmentalists who loved to rough it and by Jim Young, who had decided to skip the tour. After dinner we were entertained in a jungle setting by fire dancers. It was the perfect end to a long and exciting day. Monday March 20 9 Linda Williams Additional comments by Randy Thomson. Breakfast at Maya Canada 6:15 AM - I woke up; it is light out already; we have received no wake-up call!! Oops!! Upon checking our watches we realized we needed to be up and moving. 7:00 AM - Linda called to check on Jo and Randy since they were not feeling well last evening. Randy is feeling better, but Jo is not coming with us this morning. 8:00 AM - Breakfast at the "Maya Canada." We had 3 choices. Our guide, Prof. Gilberto 9:15 AM - We left for the ruins at Palenque. We had a guide by the name of Professor Gilberto. The sacred ceiba tree For 69 years Lord Pakal, "The Shield," ruled around 600 years after Christ. His tomb was discovered in 1949. His burial mask was made of green jade with obsidian eyes. (Corn and jade were the most precious of belongings in this culture.) Both were placed in the mouth upon death. The Ceiba Tree was pointed out as being a sacred tree (Tree of Life). This was the tree in the restaurant on our last evening meal in Palenque. It grows like a cross. We were told that in the Mayan culture flat foreheads and crossed eyes were desirable traits. Since Linda was unable to climb the tombs and palace, I agreed to provide additional comments for the tour of Palenque. Palenque map Central plaza The Palenque ruins include a very large area. Only about 10-15% of the ruins have been excavated. The excavated ruins do include the central and most important buildings, though. A number of large buildings faced the central plaza. These included the palace, Pakal's tomb, The tomb of his wife "the red queen," and the skull temple. Another temple has yet to be excavated. The steps to most buildings are very steep, especially considering the stature of the people. This is because the steps were actually seats, where people could sit to watch the ceremonies in the plaza. The palace The palace probably housed about 100 people - nobility and their servants. It had running water and restrooms, in addition to sleeping quarters, and a bath house and sauna. The doors were hinged, with stone hinge pins, built into the walls. Temples Behind the palace were three more buildings, The Temple of the Cross, the Temple of Life, and The Sun Temple which was built by Pakal's son. Other buildings are still buried in the jungle behind these temples. Climbing around all the ruins was very tiring, but was well worth it. La Chiapanecas Restaurante 12:30 PM - Lunch was in an open air restaurant where we were visited by ducks, chickens, mallards, and guineas - repeatedly! "La Chiapanecas." After lunch we were given the option of returning to the ruins or going to the hotel. A group of about six people, including Miles, decided to go back for a tour of the jungle, while the rest returned to the hotel. 1:00 PM - We returned to the hotel. Howlers in the trees Mahogany tree The jungle tour was shorter than I expected, but quite interesting. We passed, and climbed over several unexcavated ruins. A group of howler monkeys was in the trees. As we moved into their territory, they let out howls that sounded almost like a tiger's roar. It was very surprising, coming from these small animals, though they are a fairly large monkey - about two-thirds the size of a chimp. Our guide pointed out a medicinal plant that is supposed to be good for malaria and stomach ailments. It had the smell of wintergreen. We also saw a chiclet tree, which still showed scars from an earlier age, when the sap was drawn to be used as a chewing gum. Mahogany trees were easy to recognize because of their flying buttresses, needed to keep the tall tree from falling over. Crocodile's tail Relaxing at Templo de la Calvera Where one tree had fallen, our guide pointed out the tip of a crocodile statue's tail that had been pulled out of the ground by the tree roots. We entered the ceremonial plaza from the jungle, bypassing the normal entrance gate. While we waited for closing time, we had an opportunity to examine the Templo de la Calvera (The Skull Temple). The images in this building were representative of the Tabaso area, and were probably the result of a marriage alliance. Anyone for bridge? 2:00 PM - Howard, Myrtle, Berry and I played bridge with the resident Peacock watching.!! Image on the tomb of Pakal I At 4:30, we left the park with the rest of the visitors, but waited outside the gate until the crowd had cleared. We then returned to the grounds. We proceeded around Pakal's tomb to the left, and ascended it from the back side. The tomb is closed to the public, but our guide had arranged for us to visit, as a "scientific group." The view of the palace from the tomb was awesome, and I took several pictures, including a panorama sequence. We climbed the last few steps to the top, and found an opening with steep steps, protected by a screened door (to keep out both bats and people). Entering the tomb We descended into the bowels of the tomb. Except for the primitive electrical lighting, it gave somewhat the feeling of being in an Indiana Jones movie. The steep passage was wide enough for four people abreast to descend. The descent was about 35 steps to a landing, where the staircase reversed and went the remaining steps, 69 in total, one for each year of Pakal's reign. Door to the inner tomb The sarcophogus The entrance to the inner tomb was originally closed by a large triangular stone, standing vertically over the opening. This had been rotated outward to allow access. The entrance is now protected by bars, and a screen to keep the bats out. A hole had been made in the screen, which defeated its purpose, but allowed unobstructed photos of the sarcophagus. The lid to the sarcophagus was beautifully carved, and since it had always been protected, the carvings were nearly as clear as the day it was put in place, unlike most we had seen which were the victims of weather. A psychoduct was constructed, going from the inner room to the outside of the tomb, following the stairs. This stone duct was for the purpose of allowing the spirit to rise and return to the tomb. We climbed back out of the tomb, tired but elated at having the opportunity to experience something that the average tourist does not get to see. The Mayan Theatre 7:45 PM - We met for final information on our departure in the morning. Then we departed for the final evening at the dinner theater, "Mayan Theater." The show was great! 10:00 PM - We returned to the "Hotel Real Ciudad" and went to bed. Tuesday March 21 10 Howard McMahan Breakfast at Ciudad Real Jade artifacts at the Museu en Siteo The Hotel Ciudad Real served a wonderful breakfast. At 8:45 we left the hotel to head for the museum at Palenque. The two Lindas experienced some difficulty convincing the hotel staff they had turned in their room keys. The last report we had was the staff was still looking for them. The time allowed for the museum was extended due to a lot of interest in the exhibits. At 10:50 AM we boarded bus and van and headed toward Comitán. We stopped on the way to Palenque City, and our guide provided some negotiating service for Linda Doyle as she made a purchase. Linda saved 60 pesos on her woven basket due to his service. Traffic delay A minor delay occurred as a result of an accident by a heavily loaded lumber truck blocking one lane of traffic on the highway to Comitán. Vending crafts at the baños stop One baños stop was pretty interesting. There were no lights and no windows. Light was provided by a small opening of the door. A bucket of water served as the water tank. Suitable eating places were hard to find along this highway. We finally stopped for lunch in Ocosingo at Tulipanos, the same place we ate on Sunday. In the early afternoon the air conditioning system on the bus failed. The cooling provided by open windows was not sufficient for total comfort. A warm greeting in Comitán We finally arrived at Comitán. Our host families were waiting for us at the Central Park. Quick work was made of unloading the luggage and matching ambassadors and hosts. We spent the evening getting acquainted with our hosts and enjoying a light meal. Comitán de Domingas Wednesday March 22 11 Stella Norman Modern sculpture in the plaza We are scheduled to leave for our day's activities this morning at 6:30 AM. Breakfast has been prepared for us by our host Flor Torres. Flor speaks Spanish and her husband Artemio speaks Spanish and some English. The two daughters Ana and Julia speak both Spanish and English. We meet at the Casa Culture to begin our day's adventure to the sugar canes and the falls and perhaps swimming. We were told to pack our swimming suits and bring a towel. As we wait, we look around and see many modern sculptures in the park located across the street from the Culture House where we are meeting. The park has a beautiful gazebo located in the center. Waiting for subsistance money During our wait, Ana pointed out to me the very long line of indigenous people who were waiting for the bank to open. She said they were waiting for their monthly allowances from the government. She told me there are some problems with people taking their money and using it to buy alcohol to drink. She said they needed to be better educated. She said that wages were very low in the area. She told me that there are some public schools and private schools. I learned that there were not enough public schools. She said that many times the public schools are a better quality than the private schools because the private schools do not have an incentive to give the students a good education. She also said that most of the tax money comes from the middle class and the rich stay rich. Several people in the Fort Worth group find the market where they can buy coffee. The market is filled with many stalls offering foods to buy. Omen of things to come? Old sugar cane press An old school bus arrives to pick us up. Our first stop is one of the places where they grind the sugar cane. First the cut sugar cane in put into a round grinder. A horse is attached to the wheel and he is lead around the wheel to grind the cane. As the cane is ground, the juice drains through a pipe into a large pot that has a very large and hot fire that cooks the juice. Nothing is wasted because the crushed sugar canes are used to fuel the fire. This is how the Panela is made. Panela is a block of sugar that is shaped like a cone. The sugar is then cut off as needed. We were all given a taste of the sugar cane juice. Making tortillas Next there was a demonstration of how the corn is rubbed together to remove the kernels of corn. It is then boiled with water for 30 minutes. This is then mashed to make the meal. This mixture is then mixed with flour to form the mix for the tortillas. We walked to the house next to the see a demonstration of tortilla cooking. The woman took a round ball of mix and put it into a press which flattened out the tortilla. She then put the tortilla on a hot griddle to cook on both sides. After salt was sprinkled on the tortilla, we were given some to taste. Our lunch stop We stopped at the property of Artemio Torres (president of the Comitán club) for our breakfast. This property is a weekend retreat. The property is very beautiful with many flowers and waterfalls. It is located on a river. The house has table and chairs, bedrooms and bath. What a view! Our breakfast was delicious. We had tuna sandwiches and fruit salad and drinks. Each host family was responsible for providing food for their ambassadors. We walked around the grounds to see many fruit trees and flowers. We were told that the government is not very interested in conservation. We were told many of the politicians own businesses that pollute. After our meal and walk, we are now relaxed and ready for our visit to Chiflon. The omen comes to pass Public transportation to the rescue Our old bus began to make loud noises. The driver was having trouble shifting gears. The bus was smoking and it sounded like the timing was off because it was backfiring. The bus was struggling to make the many hills in and around Comitán. The city of Comitán is like San Francisco of Mexico. Finally, the bus broke down and we were told the bus had a problem. We all got off the bus and waited for a public bus or "collectivo" which is the public transportation for many of the inhabitants. It was a short wait and we were picked up for the ride to Chiflon. Our bus was a very nice comfortable bus that was headed for Tuxla. We were told that this type of bus was a third class bus in Mexico but it would be considered a first class bus in Guatemala. We hoof it in It was worth the effort We were dropped off to walk the 1 km to the falls. It was hot at the falls so many of our group went swimming or a least put our feet into the water to cool off. It was refreshing. Most of the group walked up the very steep steps to see the falls of Chiflon. At the top you were rewarded with a heavy spray that helped to cool us after the long, tiring walk up the hill. After the climb, we had a wonderful picnic lunch. We ate around 3 PM, which was the usual time for lunch. Our picnic food consisted of Chicken, salads and drinks. After the climb the food was especially delicious. Because we had lost our bus, we were told that some of the host families would pick us up in their cars. While we waited, what turned out to be a two hour wait, several people took time to shop for items at the souvenir shops or bought drinks or ice cream. We were picked up and returned to the home of our hosts. We arrived home with just enough time to shower and dress for our welcome dinner. The "Flintstone's" bar Our welcome dinner was held at the home of Miguel Perez Ayala. As we arrived, the women were given a floral arrangement. The house and gardens were a very interesting place. The back yard was cut out of rock to make a sunken garden consisting of a large number of trees. A bar stood at the end of the yard and it contained bottles positioned in the "shelves" of the rock. This bar was called the "Flintstones" bar. We learned that this backyard had once been a garbage dump. A wonderful welcome dinner The club president, Artemio Torres, asked the hosts to stand and introduce their ambassadors. Our group consisted of 18 from Fort Worth, two from Wisconsin and two from Florida. The ambassadors were presented with brochures and a map of Chiapas. The dinner was a table of typical Mexican food. We had tacos with all the fixing's and drinks and desserts. It was a wonderful relaxing evening and a great time to meet our new hosts. Thursday March 23 12 Jerry Tuttle We meet early at the Square with a sack lunch for today's tour. I didn't finish yesterday's large lunch (two each of juices, oranges, apples, bananas, pears, mangos and sandwiches). Therefore today's lunch is even larger! Coffee in the market This morning before our tour Jim and Berry went for a walk. A group in front of a small church played guitars for them. We rode with Miguel in his SUV listening to beautiful marimba music. Miguel's home, La Hacienda, has a small quarry turned into a tree-filled conservation area. We hear the word conservation frequently in Chiapas though the concept is just now taking root. Miguel tells us that Comitán was originally called Nine Stars because there were nine barrios or burroughs. Each had its own church and Zocalo (city square). We drive East on the principal boulevard of the city, Carretera Internacional that connects Chiapas with Guatemala. The highway center is graced with miles of bougainvillea bushes. Interspersed are dwarf Italian cypress and statues. Each of Mexico's 32 states has a statue. After a left turn onto Hwy 190 we are on our way to the Mayan city Chinkultik. Government checkpoint We asked Miguel why tree trunks are painted with whitewash. He says there are three reasons - control of insects/disease, safety (playing children won't run into trees) & decoration. I believe the third reason is most important. Mausoleums As we pass a cemetery we see brightly colored home-like mausoleums said to cost more than some peoples homes. Often the grave beneath the mausoleum is a cement cellar with provisions for three or more coffins stacked vertically. Chinkultik temple At last we arrive at Zona Arquelogico de Chinkultik guarded by two gates. There is much discussion at each gate as we attempt to enter. A sign warns us of four Peligrosos (dangers) in the park. We believe they are, respectively, spiders, ticks, snakes and centipedes. The area is wooded mostly with cedar trees. Chinkultik is another of the Mayan city-states but is much smaller than Palenque. It lies at the base of some hills. One or two hills to the west of the complex are so steep they suggest that they too might be temples covered with trees and undergrowth. Friday March 24 13 Ivan and Jan Gruetzmacher Cathedral de Santa Domingo Church bell cracked during revolution We started the day at the Cathedral of Santa Domingo, on the town square, the major saint of Comitán. Construction began in 1556 by the Dominican friars and combines Byzantine and neoclassical architecture. Along the walls were statues of studious theologians. In 1866 the roof was remodeled and 100 years later a marble floor was added. The left chapel of the nave depicted a dream of Santa Domingo. Statues in the main church depicted the Divine Conception. In a small chapel, colored ribbons with each color symbolic of a specific wish or prayer were arrayed. (green for health, yellow for money, etc.) A huge cracked Bell resided on the floor, destroyed by a shot during the revolution of 1953. [Linda Doyle] Mural of the fight against oppression Presentations by city council After viewing the church we proceeded to the Municipal Building. The city of Comitán is celebrating its 450th Birthday this year. We viewed the beautiful mural as we went up the steps to the second floor. It represented the Revolution over a period of years. Chiapas became a part of Mexico in 1821 and signed the Mexican Constitution in 1859. We purchased a variety of native crafts and sampled some of their candies and sweets. We then had presentations by the mayor, our exchange director and the City Council. We each received a beautiful certificate from the city. Dr.Belisario Dominguez - Martyr of Comitan This was followed by a tour of the Junchairn Casa which became the cultural Art Center in 2000 and Dr. Belisario Dominguez's House and Museum. Built in 1863 by the doctor, it represents a typical 19th century Spanish home. We saw the office and tools used by this Martyr of Comitán. The six exhibition halls represented the life and work of this distinguished man. Next stop was the Museo of Archaeological of Comitán. Here were displayed pieces of Mayan Culture found in the ruins of Tenam Puente, Tenam Rosario, and Chinkultic. We then proceeded to Café Quiptic on the Town Square for a delicious chicken lunch. Lunch at Café Quiptic Jaguar and San Caralampio Church After lunch, Linda and Antoinio guided 13 of us on a walking city tour. We ended up bringing only 5 of us back. We then proceeded to San Caralampio Church built in 1852.In front was a monument of a Jaguar which was drinking water at this artesian fountain so the people decided to build their city on this site. We then walked to the Jesuito church exquisitely decorated with gladiolas, lilies and other flowers. This was Julio and Anne's church. Break dancing on the square We proceeded to San Sebastian Square and the church which was used as a Fort during the Mexican Revolution. We rested on the benches in the square while Anna got an ice cream-like cone: Paleta de Chimbo. Made only by this vendor of banana and a caramel bread in the center. The five remaining trekkers walked back to the city square and visited many of the shops. Folklorico dance At 6:30 we went into the Theater to see a Folklorico production by the local children. They were really great. Many of us had pictures taken with the children in their authentic-looking costumes. Dinner and mariachi band The final event of the evening was a short drive out to Adriennes' Farm for dinner - beautiful Casa with a swimming pool, basketball court and a huge party room. We had a great dinner and refreshments. At 9:00 a Mariachi Band appeared. At 9:30 there were fireworks, then dancing until the band left at 11:00. Then, home to the host families after a long but great day in Comitán. Saturday March 25 14 Linda Doyle We had a really late start today in our household. The maid/cook has gone to a wedding over the weekend so we ate at a restaurant. Eggs were served in a most unusual way, over beans and tostados, but were quite tasty. Tenam Puente Thank goodness it was much cooler than yesterday for our visit to the Tenam Puente ruins. They were unbelievable. No guides or touristas. We had the whole place to ourselves. There were 3 different ball courts and one triple tomb. Almost everyone in the FFI group climbed to the top of the largest pyramid. We explored the area for about 3 hours. Delicious cocoanut and pineapple ice cream For lunch we stopped at a small restaurant on the way back to town. The fajitas were tender and delicious. But the crowning touch was pineapple or cocoanut ice cream served in a half pineapple or cocoanut. Our afternoon was free. My hostess took me next door to pick out t-shirts (for my grand nephews) from her mother's little shop. On the back of the Transvia Before dinner, we took a tour of the city on the Transvia. The little trolley seemed to be going in wider and wider circles around the city square. It was delightful to peer into the brightly lit shops that look like little dark holes in the daylight. A delicious dinner at the Matisse Many of our host had somehow all suggested the same restaurant, for dinner. (It was our turn to treat.) The Gruetzmachers were just finishing their dinner with their hosts, so we were wise enough to split orders. Randy and Jo, Jerry, and others were at our table. All the ambassadors, hosts and hostesses had a delightful impromptu visit. Sunday March 26 15 Leaf and Ange Wanless Lagos de Colon Pool at the ranch of Juan Pablo' father We started our day with a visit to the Lagos de Colon. These lakes are spring fed and have a waterfall plus paved sidewalks around the lakes. Since it was Sunday the locals were in full force there. After a snack stop we proceeded to the ranch of Juan Pablo's father. This still large ranch originally was over 1000 acres but the federal government took a large part by imminent domain and sold it to the indigenous Indians. We had a wonderful pot-luck lunch with spare ribs, chicken, salads, etc. Some members and all of the host children swam in the pool. We then headed back to our host families to freshen up for the farewell dinner at Miguel and Vicky's house. A delicious feast of native Mexican dishes The Comitán Municipal Marimba Orquestra Tables had been set up in the ficus grove that Miguel had planted in a former quarry. The bar was chiseled our of the rock and held many liquor bottles in niches. Margaritas, tequila and the ubiquitous Coke, Fanta and limonade were available. Each round table for ten was served two large platters of tamales, chicken, empanadas, stuffed jalapenos, and many other goodies. A birthday cake and song was also enjoyed. The world famous Comitán Municipal Marimba Orquestra played many wonderful selections, including "Cieleto Lindo". Pancho led several games, including the Mexican Hat Dance, balloon popping and tequila chugging, and crowing. Our club performed the "Cotton Eye Joe," which was accepted with great enthusiasm and our hosts were joining in and had fun dancing. After many hugs and kisses the Farewell Party finally broke up. Monday March 27 16 Linda Doyle Adios to Comitán Our last time together at Ciudad Mexico airport Well, the exchange is over. The bus pulled out of Comitán at 6:00 AM en Puente(sharp). We arrived in Tuxtla-Gutierrez at 9:30 AM just beating a huge group of travelers. We were delayed in boarding by a group of school children touring the airport but had plenty of time. Once in Mexico City, we went from one end of the airport to the other, transferring from regional to international. The group stuck together this time and we checked through the desk for boarding passes very quickly. Everything went smoothly. The flight was smooth and we actually landed ten minutes ahead of schedule at DFW. Sad farewells were said in Mexico City to Angie and Loren and in DFW to Ivan and Jan. It was a perfect ending to an exchange that provided lots of adventures and lots of memories to treasure.